I moved. I left Parc Ex. Those who know me well would think that this would be impossible. Friends thought of two things when they thought of Parc Ex, Indian food, and me. Some called me the mayor jokingly… and, my conceited ass loved it.
I moved to a tower in the International District, a phallic glass tower 56 storeys tall and it’s truly been life changing… and mainly due to the dishwasher. I’ve never felt so far from Parc Ex, which I can practically see from my apartment. I now live 150 metres away from the official limits of Old Montréal and this has become my new hood…
I’ve always said there are two sides to the old city. The West being the better and/or the local’s side, and then there’s the East: the “I LOVE MTL” t-shirt shops, Ben & Jerry’s and the Poutineville side. I passed by a shop the other day that had a t-shirt displayed outdoors that read “your boobs look heavy, let me hold them for you”. Reading this over now made me chuckle a bit but let’s be honest, only shitty stores sell these things and only shitty hoods house shitty shops. There’s so much “mid” in Old Montréal. This mid saddens me since I want visitors to see how non-mid our city truly is. A lobster focused restaurant with a mediocre lobster roll is kind of the norm here regrettably.
I wanted to share spots I’ve fallen back in love with or have sparked a new relationship with. Old Montréal is an absolutely beautiful dame. Here are some beauty marks she wears well. I mean… she’s got a lot of touristy wrinkles but what city doesn’t? Pier 39 in SF, the Reading Terminal in Philly…It’s cute and all but forget the sea lions, popcorn and Bialys. Always listen to the locals. Here are a few of my favourite things.
1. LE BEAU MARCHEWhen I travel I need that local food stop that will keep my mini fridge or counter space and me content. Something like if a WholeFoods had a baby with a bodega. Get a few fruits that I can watch rot during my stay, some late night snacks and maybe something I can call pre-breakfast breakfast food. If only they were all as great as le Beau Marché. We’re talking charcuteries from Cochons Tout Ronds (who we showcase on our Montréal food tours), lovely Québec cheeses and some natural wines. They have bread from Pain dans les Voiles and sell King Island coconut water. Bless their expensive hearts. This is the one “mini market” spot you need for your stay here or your last minute pick ups for a dinner party because you can’t make it to Marché Jean-Talon before hosting if you live here.
2. RUE SAINT HELENE
This is a fantastic concentration of Neo-Renaissance beauties, originally warehouse shops with big showcase windows on the ground floor, offices, storage and even old sleeping quarters above. You want that shot that screams Emily in Montréal? This is where you get it. This is where filmmakers get it. She’s a lovely quiet gem of a stretch away from the herds of tourists.
3. STRUCTURE TORRÉFACTEURS (CAFÉ AND ROASTERS)
This part of town was devoid of good quality coffee about 7 years ago and now hosts an amazing array of local shops, cafés and roaster showrooms. Micro Espresso and Crew Café are lovers of mine but Structure is my bae. Their coffee is roasted at the Canadian Roasting Society, their space is clean, sophisticated and the staff on weekends play old French classics on Vinyl. Plus, they’re super dog friendly (Old Montréal is so dog friendly). There’s often a huge line at the Vancouver based corner spot Parallel 49, that feels so chain-y. My dog Damascus and I walk by their line straight to our shorter queue in the semi-basement that houses Structure for coffee and familiar smile, à la Montréalaise.
This was the one I had high hopes for when revisiting old classics. This was the one I felt had reached institution status while I was gone and because of that I walked in confidently knowing who he had become and how our date would go. This place opened up during a different era of the Montréal food scene and it’s just as good as it was then. It’s got that old, Old Montréal charm with the stone walls and a pub meets the wooden cellar vibe. Food is on point, the bar staff is confident as they should be. I love walking past it, missing the dimly lit red box that serves as their sign and walking back to open the door and feeling right at home at what might be my new local. He’s as dapper as he was 10 years ago, and he’s aged like Clooney.
It’s pretty unfortunate that there are really very few spots to pick up a real croissant in the area. Honestly, I see them and they look like the ones we used to buy from Maxi in transparent plastic boxes back in the 90s. Everything Chez Potier does is top notch though. The cannelés are the best in the city, a crunchy exterior with an almost creamy interior. The croissants are lovely. Their selection of pastries and beautiful cakes are show stopping and they sell high end food products in their market area. The spot is on the cusp of the Vieux Montréal and Cité Multimedia which means you gotta walk to the edge to get the best croissant mais c’est ça qui est ça because the other croissants, c’est vraiment pas ça mes amis. That’s what Emily says anyway.
There’s a few great galleries along the western part rue St Paul. Le Royer and L’institut National d’art Contemporain are lovely. Station 16 reps artists we showcase on our mural tours too. The latest addition to the stretch is the Old Montréal branch of L’Original. They are located in the semi-basement of the immaculate, architectural orgasmic warehouse building built by John Ostell, the McGill uni architect. This is a gallery showcasing many artists that had their start as graffiti writers and clandestino installation ninjas. It’s rough, real and a grass roots showroom for the talent from our city streets, indoors. Their St. Denis branch often hosts events and vernissages and they opened another large space that they will use for events a few doors down on Saint Paul. The sign above the entrance has the words “Yes, we art” hanging above the doorway.
I buy fresh flowers as soon as my last bouquet dies and I am proud to say I can make them stretch a while, thanks grandma. When the Square Vic vendor closed ups his glass cube for the winter I was so happy to stumble upon Misty. They’re literally hidden in the back of Boho Lab which is a shop that looks like its a go-to for your aunt when she’s decorating the condo down in Boca. I love chitchatting with Linda the witty owner while Damascus and I pick up our Lillies or a eucalyptus bouquet for the shower.
8. BEYOND THE BASILICA WALKING TOUR
I see so many massive groups on “free tours” and herds following guides wearing uniforms holding flags and it all looks so miserable. The Beyond the Basilica walking tour is limited to 10 participants, you skip the line at the Basilica, check out a bit of Old Montréal but then leave to see some real Montréal. It goes through Chinatown, the old Red-light, ends in the funky Plateau with street art. Plus it comes with a dim sum snack, third wave coffee and a stellar recommendations list. If you’re gonna do one tour that includes Old Montréal, do this one. Trust me, it’s a route I designed for friends when visiting..
I’m not a hater but the Old Port hasn’t seen anything good come of it since the 90’s. Container shops selling crap made in China, a ferris wheel shorter than promised (that operates on energy fuelled by corruption) and monumental parking lots that are monumental money makers, no bueno. Then came along le Grand Quai and I’m obsessed. Architecturally stunning, the elevated portion has indigenous flora by a walkway that leads you to a hidden park (that Rosemary my dog walking friend will kill me when she finds out I told you about it). You actually feel connected to the river, there’s a massive and beautiful Saint Louis style artwork, Adirondack chairs and all. Their observation tower for city views and more would be what I would pay for over the wheel any day. Side note, a lot of locals mistakingly call Old Montréal the Old Port. The Old Port is south of de la Commune, like where the old port was….
10. BMO HQ
The Bank of Montréal headquarters across from the Basilica is a scene straight out of Catch Me If You Can. The other day I was shamed by a teller for the amount of times I have lost my bank card while waiting for a replacement and thought to myself what else could I be shamed about to have to exist in this regal space more often. Like take my money, take my money. There are so many buildings you can pop into in this part of town without American style metal detectors and have what I call architectural orgasms. Check out the Aldred across the square, this Daily Planet looking building is one of my faves and its lobby is very sexy . 
